Monday, September 20, 2010

STOCKS

The importance of stock in the kitchen is indicated by the French word for stock: FOND, meaning foundation or base. In classical cuisine, the ability to prepare good stocks is the most basic of all skills, because so much of the work in the kitchen depends upon them. A good stock is the base for soups, sauces, gravies and stews. In the modern kitchen however, stock has lost some of its relevance and importance. Stock requires labor and moreover, the trend towards lean food without sauces means that today, stocks are not that necessary. Also the advent of the convenience stock cube, paste or powder has made the traditional stock making a bit obsolete. Nevertheless, the finest cuisine still depends on high quality stock. So stock making still remains an essential skill. Stocks are never served by themselves but are components of other dishes.

DEFINITION:
Stock is a flavorful and nutritious extract/liquid made by the careful simmering of meat and meat bones, or fish and fish bones plus aromatic vegetables, seasoning and flavoring.

The preparation of stock has been simplified in many ways since the days of Escoffier. However its relevance and use in the modern day kitchen has not diminished. There are three basic stocks used nowadays in the kitchen:

White Stock or Fond Blanc
Brown Stock or Fond Brun or Estouffade
Fish Stock or Court Bouillon or Fumet (reduced fish stock)

As per the definition, there is no such thing as a `vegetable stock’ but the cooking liquor obtained from cooking vegetables could be used in the place of stock in some cases and should be referred to as `pot liquor’.


THE INGREDIENTS


BONES:

Bones are the major ingredients in the making of stock. Most of the flavor and the body of stock are obtained from the bones of beef, veal, chicken and other poultry and fish. Occasionally, lamb, goat, pork and game bones are used for specific purposes. The kind of bones used would ofcourse indicate the type of stock.
Chicken stock is made from chicken bones
Veal stock is made from veal bones
Fish Stock is made from fish bones and
Beef stock is made from beef bones

Chicken and veal stock is called White Stock whereas Beef Stock is referred to as Brown Stock. The bones for brown stock are first browned in the oven so as to give the special color. Lamb, turkey and have specialized uses.

There are two important factors to keep in mind here:

1. Meat and bones contain connective tissues called collagen. On heating, these break down and form gelatin and it is this gelatin that gives `body’ to the stock. Body is an important feature in stock making and is a quality indicator. A well made stock will thicken and even solidify when chilled.
2. Cartilage is the best source of gelatin in bones. Younger animals have more cartilage in their skeletons. As they get older, these harden into solid bone which is harder to dissolve into the stock. Knuckle bones, on the joints of major bones, have a lot of cartilage and are valued in stock making. Neck bones and shank bones are also used a great deal.

Large bones are cut into smaller pieces, about 3” long. This exposes more surface area and aids maximum extraction. These smaller pieces of bones are easier to handle and fit easily into the stockpot.


MEAT:

Because of its cost, meat is rarely used nowadays in stock making. However, in the classical methods, large pieces of tougher cuts of meat were used to add flavor, taste, and nutritive value and to give body to the stock. Of course, suitable meats would be used. Beef for beef stock, chicken for chicken stock etc.


MIREPOIX:

Aromatic vegetables are the second most important ingredients used to make stock. These add to the flavor and will include onion, carrot, celery and leeks. When these vegetables and roughly cut and mixed together, they are referred to as a mirepoix. (Pronounced: Meer pwah). A mirepoix is used in all areas of cooking as a flavoring and not just in stock making. So you will come across this term often. To make 400 GMS of mirepoix you will need:
200 GMS onion & leeks (without the green portion)
100 GMS of carrot &
100 GMS of celery.
To make mirepoix for a white stock, omit the carrot. This is done so as to obtain a colorless stock. As I have mentioned earlier, the vegetables of a mirepoix are roughly cut. The size depends on for how long you will cook the stock. Cooking times of the various stocks will vary, as you will learn later in this chapter.


ACID:

Acid products help to dissolve the connective tissue present in meat and bones. Tomato products (paste and puree or juice) are used in brown stocks but would discolor white stock. Lemon juice or white vinegar is a commonly used acid product. Wine is occasionally used especially for fish stocks. However, its flavor contribution is more important than its acidity.


SCRAPS & LEFTOVERS:

These are constantly being added into the stockpot over a period of time. This may or may not be a good idea. Scraps and leftovers may be added if they are clean and appropriate to the stock being made. Remember that the stockpot is not a garbage disposal unit and the final product is only as good as the ingredients that are used.


SEASONING AND SPICES:

1. Salt is used in minute quantities in stock making. They help to bring out the natural flavors in the stock. However, stock is rarely served as it is but is part of some other dish, which will have its own seasoning. Moreover, stock is always concentrated before use.
2. Herbs and spice should be used only lightly. They should never dominate a stock or have a very pronounced flavor. Herbs and spices are normally tied in a muslin (cheese) cloth and introduced into the stock. This is known as a sachet (which is French for a bag). A bouquet garni is a kind of sachet, which uses parsley stalks, thyme, bayleaf and peppercorn. This is the ideal combination for stock making.


Many chefs use ratios to help them remember the basic proportion of the ingredients used in stock making.

Bones: 50%

Mirepoix: 10%

Water: 100%

However, given here is a more detailed ratio of the ingredients used.
INGREDIENT PROPORTIONS:

For 4 liters of stock

Ingredients White Brown Fish
Stock Stock Stock

Bones 2.5kg 2.5kgs 2kgs
Mirepoix 500g 500g 250g
Water 5lit 5lit 4lit
Sachet 1 no 1no 1no
Tomato product -- 250g --
White Wine -- -- 250ml


PROCEDURES:

Making stock may seem to be a simple procedure. However, there are many steps involved. You must understand not only what to do, but also why you are doing it.

Blanching of the Bones:

We know that proteins coagulate when heated. Many proteins dissolve in cold water, but solidify into small particles or into froth and scum when heated. It is these particles that make a stock cloudy. Much of the technique of stock making involves avoiding cloudiness to produce a clear stock. The purpose of blanching the bones is to rid them of the impurities, which cause cloudiness. The bones of young animals are highest in blood and other impurities that cloud and discolor stocks. Chefs tend to disagree on the importance of blanching. Some feel that the process causes flavor loss. Others feel it is necessary to produce a clear stock. Fish bones are not blanched because of their short cooking time. Blanching involves the following steps:
1. Cut bones into small pieces and rinse in cold water. This washes off the blood and some of the other impurities. This step is especially important if the bones are not absolutely fresh.
2. Place the bones in a stockpot and cover with cold water. Remember, impurities dissolve easily in cold water.
3. Bring the water to a boil. As the water heats, impurities solidify (coagulate) and rise to the surface as scum.
4. Drain the bones and rinse them well. The bones are now ready for the stockpot.
5. To make brown stock, one more step is involved: Browning of the bones in the oven. This will impart the required color to the stock.

Procedure for preparing stock:

1. Add the blanched bones to cold water.
2. Bring the water to a boil, then reduce to a simmer.
3. Skim the scum that rises to the surface, carefully.
4. Add the mirepoix and the sachet. (add tomato products if used)
5. Do not let the stock boil rapidly. Keep it at a low simmer. Boiling makes the stock cloudy.
6. Skim the surface as often as required.
7. Keep the water level above the bones. Cooking bones exposed to air will turn them dark and discolor the stock.
8. Simmer for the recommended time:
9. Brown stock: 6 to 8 hours
White stock: 3 to 4 hours
10. Skim the surface and strain the stock through a clean muslin/Tammy cloth.
11. Cool the stock as quickly as possible. Cooling the stock quickly and properly is important. Improperly cooled stock can spoil easily because it is a good breeding ground for bacteria. Do not refrigerate hot stock. It will damage the refrigerator and cause other foods to spoil as well.

Note: For Brown Stock, the mirepoix may be browned with the bones.
When the bones are half browned, add the mirepoix. However, some chefs prefer to add the mirepoix directly to the stock.


FISH STOCK:

Fish stock is prepared from fish bones obtained after cleaning, cutting, trimming and filleting fish. These are thoroughly washes and then allowed to sweat in a little oil or butter in a covered pan over medium heat. Water is then poured into the pan and brought to a boil. The scum formed is skimmed off regularly and the mirepoix added before allowing the stock to simmer for 20 to 25 minutes. Because of the short cooking time involved, fish stock is often referred to as Court Bouillon (court meaning short in French).



REDUCTION & GLAZES

Stocks can be concentrated by boiling or simmering them to reduce them and evaporate part of the water. This is called reduction or reducing.

A glaze is a stock that is reduced till it coats the back of a spoon. It is so concentrated that is solid and rubbery when refrigerated. Glazes are used as flavorings in sauce making and in some meat, fish, poultry and even vegetable preparations. Only small amounts are needed, as they are very concentrated. There are three types of glazes:

1. Meat glaze or glace de viande made from brown stock.
2. Chicken glaze or glace de volaille made from chicken stock.
3. Fish glaze or glace de poisson made from fish stock (sometimes called Fumet).



The cost, both in terms of money, material and time of making stocks in the kitchen has lead to the widespread use of concentrated convenience products known as bases. The may be powders or pastes which are diluted with water to make a flavored liquid similar to stocks. Nestle, Maggi and Knorr are the leading international manufacturers of these bases.

Glazes can be considered to be bases, and in fact they are the original bases, used long before the modern versions.

Bases vary greatly in quality. The best ones are composed mainly of meat extracts. These are perishable products and need to be refrigerated. However, a lot of bases are primarily salt (an expensive way of buying salt). Read the list of ingredients on the box or packet and avoid those, which list salt first!

USING BASES:

- Bases can be improved by simmering them with a little mirepoix, meat trimmings and bones. This improves the taste and gives a `fresher’ and more natural flavor to the stock.
- Bases can be added to stocks to supplement their flavor and taste and reduce the cooking time.
- Bases are added to stocks to supplement them when only a little is on hand.

There is no substitute for a well-made stock. But it is also true that a good base may be better than a poorly made stock!!

BASIC COOKING PRINCIPLES I: HEAT AND FOOD

To cook food means to heat it in order to make certain changes in it. Skilful cooks know exactly what changes they want to make and what they have to do in order to effect the changes. To learn these cooking skills, it is important to know how and why foods behave in a particular manner when they are heated.


Effects of Heat on Food:

Foods are composed of protein, fats, carbohydrates and water plus trace elements like minerals, vitamins, pigments and flavor elements. It is important to understand how these elements react when heated and when mixed with each other. You must understand why foods behave as they do and then you can get them to behave, as you want them to.

PROTEINS

1. Protein is a major component of meat, fish, poultry, egg and milk. It is present in smaller amounts in nuts, beans and grain.
2. As proteins are heated, they become firm and coagulate. As the temperature increases, they shrink, become firmer and lose more moisture. Exposure of proteins to excessive heat toughens them and makes them dry. Most proteins complete coagulation at 160-185F (71-85C).
3. Connective tissues are special proteins that are present in meats. Meats with a great deal of connective are tough, but some connective tissues dissolve when cooked slowly with moisture.
4. Acids such as lemon juice, vinegar and tomato help to speed coagulation and also help dissolve some connective tissues.


CARBOHYDRATES

1. Starches and sugars are both carbohydrates. Both compounds are present in foods in many different forms. They are found in fruits, vegetables and grain plus in beans and nuts. Meats and fish contain only very small amount of carbohydrates.
2. For a chef, the two most important changes in carbohydrates caused by heat are caramelization and gelatinization.



Caramelization is the browning of sugars. The browning of seared meats and the golden crusts of bread loafs are forms of caramelization.
Gelatinization occurs when starches absorb water and swell. This is a major principle in the making of sauces and the production of bread and pastries.
Acids inhibit gelatinization.



FRUITS & VEGETABLE FIBER

1. Fiber is the name of a group of complex substances that give structure and firmness to plants. This fiber cannot be digested.
2. The softening of fruit and vegetables in cooking is the part breakdown of this fiber.
3. Sugar makes fiber more firm. Fruits cooked in sugar remain more firm.
4. Baking soda and other alkalis make fiber softer. Vegetables should not be cooked with baking soda because they become mushy and also lose their color and the vitamin content.


FATS

1. Fats are present in meat, fish, poultry, eggs, milk products nuts and whole grain and to a lesser extent in vegetables and fruit. Fats are also important as a cooking medium and for frying.
2. Fats could either be solid or liquid at room temperature. Liquid fats are called oils. Melting points of solid fats vary.
3. When fats are heated, they begin to breakdown. When hot enough, they deteriorate rapidly and begin to smoke. The temperature at which this happens is called the smoke point and it varies for different fats and oils.


MINERALS, VITAMINS, PIGMENTS

1. Minerals and vitamins are important to the nutritional quality of the food. Pigments are important to a food’s appearance.
2. All these components may be leached out, or dissolved away from foods during cooking.
3. Vitamins and pigments may also be destroyed by heat, by long cooking and by other elements present during cooking.
4. It is important, then, to select cooking methods that preserve, as much as possible, a food’s nutrients and appearance. These will always be a consideration when cooking techniques are involved.


HEAT TRANSFER

In order for food to be cooked, heat must be transferred from the heat source (such as a gas flame or heating element coil) to and through the food. Understanding the way in which heat is transferred and the sped at which it is transferred helps to control the cooking process. Heat could be transferred by Conduction, Convection or Radiation.

Conduction – occurs in two ways:
1. When heat moves directly from one item to something touching it.
2. When heat moves from one part of something to an adjacent part of the same item.

Different materials conduct heat at different speeds. Heat moves rapidly through copper and aluminum, more slowly through stainless steel and slower yet in glass and porcelain. Air is a very poor conductor of heat.

Convection – Convection occurs when the movement of air, steam or liquid (including hot fat) spreads heats. There are two types of convection:
1. Natural. Hot liquids and gases rise, while cooler ones sink. Thus in any oven, kettle of water or deep fat fryer there is a constant natural circulation that distributes the heat.
2. Mechanical. In convection ovens and steamers, fans speed the circulation of heat. Thus the heat is circulated much faster and more evenly and thus the food cooks faster.

Stirring is a mechanical form of convection. Thick liquids cannot circulate as quickly as thin ones, so the rate of natural circulation is slower.

Radiation - Occurs when energy is transferred by waves from the source to the food. The waves themselves are not actually heat energy but are changed into heat energy when they strike the food being cooked. There are two types of radiation used in the kitchen:
1. Infrared. Broiling is the most familiar example in infrared cooking. In a broiler, an electric element or a ceramic element heated by a gas flame becomes so hot it gives off infrared radiation. which cooks the food. There are also high intensity infrared ovens, designed to heat food rapidly.
2. Microwave: In microwave cooking, the radiation generated by the oven penetrates part way into the food, where it agitates the molecules of water. The friction caused by this agitation creates intense heat, which cooks the food. Because microwave radiation affects only water molecules, a completely waterless material will not heat up in the microwave. Plates become hot only because of the conduction of heat from the food. Also, because microwaves penetrate no more than 2” into the foods, heat is transferred to the center of large pieces by conduction.



COOKING TIMES


It takes time to heat a food to the desires temperature, the temperature at which food is done (meaning the desired changes have taken place). This time is affected by three factors.

1. Cooking temperature
This means the temperature of the air in the oven, the surface of the griddle,
or the liquid in which the food is cooking.
2. The speed of heat transfer
Different cooking methods transfer heat at different rates. Frying and sautéing are faster than roasting.
3. Size, Temperature and individual characteristics of the food
For example –
A small piece of meat cooks faster than a large one.
A chilled piece of fish takes longer to broil than one at room temperature.
Seafood cooks faster than lamb and chicken.

Because there are so many variables, it is impossible to determine the cooking time in a recipe. The chef must use his or her judgement to make the final evaluation of the doneness of the food.

BASIC COOKING PRINCIPLES (CONTD.) (methods of cooking)

COOKING METHODS

Cooking methods are classified as `moist heat’ and `dry heat’

Moist-heat methods are those in which the heat is conducted to the food product by water (liquid) or steam.
Dry-heat methods are those in which the heat is conducted without moisture, that is, by hot air, hot metal, radiation or hot fat. We usually classify dry heat methods into two categories: with fat and without fat.

Different cooking methods suit different kinds of foods. For example, some meats are high in connective tissue and will be tough unless the tissue is broken down slowly by moist heat. Other meats are low in connective tissue and are naturally tender. They are at their best and juiciest when cooked with dry heat.

There are many factors to consider when choosing a method of cooking for meat, fish, poultry and vegetables, such as the flavor and appearance imparted by browning, the flavor imparted by fats and the firmness and delicacy of the product.



MOIST HEAT METHODS

POACH, SIMMER & BOIL

To poach, simmer and boil all means to cook a food in water or a seasoned liquid like stock or even milk. The temperature of the liquid determines the method.

1. To boil means to cook in a liquid that is bubbling rapidly and is greatly agitated. Water boils at 212F (100C) at sea level. No matter how high the burner is turned, the temperature of the liquid will go no higher. Boiling is generally reserved for vegetables and certain starch products. The high temperature would cause protein foods to toughen (meats and fish) and the rapid bubbling would break up delicate products.

2. To simmer means to cook in a liquid that is bubbling very gently. Temperatures are generally 185 - 205F (85 - 96C). Most foods cooked in a liquid are simmered. The high temperatures and agitation are detrimental to most foods.

3. To poach means to cook in a liquid, usually a small amount that is hot, but not actually bubbling. Temperature is about 160 - 180C (71 - 82). Poaching is used to cook delicate foods such as fish and eggs. It is also used to partially cook variety meats to get rid of odors and undesirable flavors which can be eliminated by poaching and which will firm up the product before the actual cooking.

4. To blanch means to cook an item very briefly, usually in hot water, but sometimes, as in the case of French fries, in hot fat. There are two ways of blanching in water: a. Put the item in cold water and simmer for a few seconds and then plunge into cold water.

b. Place the item in rapidly boiling water, bring the water back to a boil, remove the item and cool rapidly.


A rule of thumb, for when a food has to be simmered or poached, the liquid should first be brought to a boil to compensate for the loss in temperature when the food is introduced. The heat is then adjusted to maintain a steady temperature.


STEAMING

To steam means to cook foods by exposing them directly to steam.
1. In quantity cooking, this is usually done in special steam cookers. These are designed to accept special pans. Steaming can also be done on a rack above boiling water. This method is more cumbersome.
2. Steaming also refers to cooking an item tightly wrapped or in a covered pan, so that it cooks in the steam formed by its own moisture. This method is usually referred to as en papilotte, where the food is wrapped in parchment or foil. `Baked’ potatoes wrapped in foil are actually steamed.
3. Steam at normal pressure is 212F (100C), the same as boiling water. However, it carries much more heat than boiling water and cooks very rapidly. Cooking times must be carefully controlled to avoid overcooking.4. A pressure steamer is a pressure cooker that holds steam under pressure. The temperature of the steam then goes higher than 212F (100C)

Steaming is widely used for vegetables. It cooks them rapidly without agitation and minimizes the nutrient, color and flavor loss normally associated with boiling.



BRAISING

To braise means to cook covered in a small amount of liquid, usually after preliminary browning. Then cooking could be done on a bed of vegetables and most often, the liquid used for the cooking is served with the foodstuff as a sauce.

1. Braised meats are normally browned first using a dry heat method such as pan frying or searing. This gives a desirable appearance and color and flavor to the product and to the sauce.
2. Braising also refers to cooking some vegetables such as cabbage and leeks, without the preliminary browning.
3. Food being braised is not completely covered with liquid during the cooking process. The top of the product is normally cooked by steaming.
4. Braising is done on the range top or could even be done in the oven. Oven braising has two advantages: 1. Uniform cooking, as the heat penetrates the food from all sides and not just the bottom. 2. Less attention is required. In the oven the foods will cook slowly and gently without having to be checked frequently.
5. In the braising of meats, usually large joints or whole birds (like chicken, duck) are cooked in this method.


STEWING

To stew means to cook pieces of meat or fish or vegetables using fairly large amounts of liquids.

1. The food items are normally cut into small cubes. Tougher cuts of meat and harder vegetables are cooked by this method.
2. The liquid is normally at simmering point and is enough to just cover the entire foodstuff.
3. In stewing, a lot of the nutrients, flavor and taste of the food item is transferred to the liquid.

Stewing is almost the same as simmering and the principles are the same. Simmering refers to a preliminary method of cooking whereas stewing refers to the making of a dish.






DRY HEAT METHODS


ROAST & BAKE

To roast and to bake means to cook foods by surrounding them with hot dry air, usually in the oven. Cooking on a spit is also referred to as roasting.

Roasting usually applies to meat and poultry.
Baking applies to bread, pastries and cakes & cookies. Fish could also be baked.

1. Cooking uncovered is essential to roasting. Covering holds in steam, changing the process from dry to moist heat cooking.
2. Meat is usually roasted on a rack. This rack prevents the meat from simmering in its own juices and fat. It also allows hot air to circulate around the meat. A rack of roughly cut vegetables could also be used.
3. When roasting in a conventional oven, the cook should allow for uneven temperatures in the different parts of the oven by occasionally shifting the position of the product. Usually the back of the oven is hotter as heat is lost near the door.


BROILING

To broil means to cook by radiant heat from above.

The terms broiling, griddling and grilling are sometimes confused. Grilling is often called broiling and griddling is called grilling. For purposes of clarity, broiling is done on a broiler, griddling on a griddle plate and grilling on a griller!

1. Broiling is a rapid high heat cooking method that is usually used only for tender meats, poultry, fish and a few vegetable items.

2. The following rules should be applied while broiling:

a. Turn the heat on full. Cooking temperature is controlled by moving the rack nearer or further from the heat source.
b. Use lower heat for larger and thicker items and for items that have to be well done. Use higher heat for thinner pieces and for pieces to be cooked rare. This is done so that the inside and the outside cook at the same time.
c. Preheat the broiler. This helps to sear the product faster and the hot broiler will make the desired marks on the food item.
d. Dip the food item in oil to prevent sticking and to minimize drying. But be careful as too much oil could cause a fire.
e. Turn the food over only once, to cook from both sides and to avoid overhandling.

3. A low intensity broiler is called a salamander and is used for browning the top of dishes and provides some melting before the service.


GRILLING, GRIDDLING & PAN BROILING

Grilling, Griddling and Pan-broiling are all dry heat methods of cooking that use heat from below.

1. Grilling is done on an open grid over a heat source, which may be charcoal, an electric element or gas heated. Moving the food items from hotter to cooler places on the grill regulates cooking temperatures. Grilled items must be turned over once during the cooking process to ensure even cooking.

2. Griddling is done on a solid cooking surface called the griddle, with or without small quantities of fat. To prevent sticking. The temperature is adjustable and is around 350F/177C. this is much lower than on a grill. In addition to meats, items such as pancakes and eggs can be cooked on a griddle. Grooved griddles have a solid top with raised ridges and are designed to cook like grills and leave desirable marks on the surface of the food. Although they may appear the same as food cooked on the grill, meats cooked on the griddle do not have the charcoal-grilled flavor imparted while cooking on a grill.

3. Pan – broiling is like griddling, except it is done on a frying or sauté pan or skillet instead of on a griddle surface. Fat must be poured off as it accumulates, or the process would become pan-frying.












DRY HEAT METHODS USING FAT



SAUTE


To sauté means to cook in small amounts of fat.
1. The French word sauter means `to jump’, referring to the action of tossing small pieces of food on a sauté pan. However, larger slices of meat or vegetables could be sautéed without actually tossing.
2. Note these two important principles:

a. Preheat the pan before adding the food to be sautéed. The food must be seared quickly, or it will begin to simmer in its own juices.
b. Do not overcrowd the pan or else the temperature will lower.

3. Meats to be sautéed are often dusted with flour to prevent sticking and help achieve uniform browning.
4. After sautéing, a liquid such as stock or even wine or water is swirled in the pan to dissolve browned bits of food sticking to the base or the sides. This is called deglazing. The liquid becomes part of the sauce that is served with the foodstuff.




PAN FRYING

To pan – fry means to cook in a moderate amount of fat in a pan over moderate heat.

1. Pan-frying is similar to sautéing, except that more fat is used and the cooking time is longer. Larger items are used and it not possible to toss them.
2. Pan-frying is normally done over lower heat than sautéing, because larger pieces are being cooked.
3. The amount of fat used depends on the food being cooked. Only a small amount will be required for eggs, but meat and fish items would require a bit more.
4. Most food items would be required to be turned over at least once for even cooking.









DEEP FRYING

To deep fry means to cook food submerged in hot fat. Quality in a deep fried product is characterized by the following properties:

- minimum fat absorption
- minimum moisture loss (i.e. not overcooked)
- attractive golden color
- crisp coating or surface
- no off flavors (sometimes imparted by the frying fat)

Many foods are dipped in a breading or in a batter before frying. This forms a protective coating between food and fat and helps give the product crispness, color and flavor.



Guidelines for deep frying:

1. Fry at proper temperatures. Most foods are fried at 350 to 375F (170 to 190C). Frying at too low a temperature usually causes excessive greasiness in fried in fried foods.
2. Don’t overload the baskets. Doing so greatly lowers the fat temperature.
3. Use good quality fat. The best fat for frying has a high smoke point.
4. Replace 15 – 20% of the fat with fresh amounts after daily use.
5. Discard spent fat. Old fat loses frying ability, browns excessively and imparts an off flavor.
6. Avoid frying strong and mild flavored foods in the same fat, if possible. French fries should not taste like fried fish.
7. Fry as close to the service time as possible. The food moisture quickly makes the breading or the batter soggy.

8. Protect fat from the following:

- Heat: turn off the fire after frying or to a lower holding temperature.
- Oxygen: keep fat covered in between use.
- Water: remove excess moisture from food before frying.
- Salt: never salt the food over the fryer.
- Food particles: dust off loose crumbs before frying and skim the fat often.








PRESSURE FRYING

Pressure frying means deep-frying in a special covered fryer that traps the steam given off by the food being cooked and increases the pressure inside the kettle. Pressure frying requires accurate timing, because the product cannot be seen while it is cooking. In a standard fryer, even though the fat may be at 350F (175C) the temperature inside the food will not rise above 212F (100C), the boiling point of water. In a pressure fryer, this temperature is raised and cooks the food much faster without excessive browning. At the same time, the fat temperature could be lower (325F/165C).

CHAPTER XVI: SAUCES

Like stocks, sauces have lost some of their importance in the modern kitchen setup. The skill of the Chef Saucier was second to none and sauce making was and important and treasured art. Most of the decline could be attributed to the advent of convenience foods and the eating habits of people.

However, much of this change is due to misunderstandings. How many times have we heard people exclaim `I don’t want all these sauces, give me plain and simple food’ and then proceed to pour ketchup and chili sauce over everything from French fries to burgers and even pizzas!! This could also be attributed to poorly made sauces. No one likes thick and pasty sauces over their meat or vegetables or salty but otherwise tasteless sauces gumming up their meat and fish. But just because some chefs serve badly made sauces, there is no reason to reject all sauce cookery. In fact, good sauce making is the pinnacle of good cooking, both in the skill they require and the excitement and variety they create in the food. Very often the most memorable part of a meal is the excellent sauce that accompanied the meat or the fish. A sauce works like a seasoning. It enhances and accents the flavor of the food. It should not dominate, overpower or hide the food.

DEFINITION

A sauce is defined as a flavorful liquid, usually thickened, which is used to flavor, season and enhance other foods.

A sauce adds the following qualities to food:

- moistness
- Flavor
- Richness
- Appearance, color and shine
- Interest and appetite appeal

CLASSIFICATION
Sauces can be classified as under:

- Mother sauces/leading sauces
- Derivative/secondary sauces
- Emulsion sauces
- Proprietary sauces
- Dessert sauces
- Miscellaneous sauces


THE STRUCTURE OF A SAUCE

Three kinds of ingredients make up the structure of a sauce.

- A Liquid, which is the body of the sauce
- A Thickening agent
- Additional seasoning and flavoring agents

LIQUID

A liquid agent provides the base and the body of the sauce:

Milk for the Béchamel
Stock for the Veloute and Espagnole
Butter for the hollandaise
Oil for the Mayonnaise

THICKENING AGENTS

A sauce must be thick enough to cling lightly to the foods; otherwise it will run off and lie in a puddle at the bottom of the dish. This does not mean that it should be heavy and pasty either. Starches are the most common thickening agents used in sauces but there are others as well.

- Roux : Cooked mixture of butter and flour
- Beurre manie : uncooked mixture of butter and flour
- Whitewash: blend of milk and flour
- Slurry: blend of water and flour
- Corn starch: blend of corn flour and water. Used when a clear glossy texture is required.
- Arrowroot: used like cornstarch but gives an even clearer sauce.
- Waxy maize: Used when sauce is to be frozen. Flour and other starches break down and lose their thickening power when they are frozen. Waxy Maize does not.
- Breadcrumbs: Both fresh and dry will thicken sauces very quickly as they have already been cooked.
- Egg Yolks: used as thickening in emulsion sauces such as mayonnaise and Hollandaise.
- Egg Yolk and Cream Liaison: Thick cream also adds thickness and flavor to the sauce. Egg yolks have the power to thicken because of the coagulation of the protein present in the yolk, when heated. Besides thickening, the liaison also gives richness, flavor & smoothness to the sauce.


OTHER FLAVORING INGREDIENTS

In order to vary the basic sauce, other flavoring and seasoning ingredients are added to the sauce. They provide character to the finished sauce. This also makes it possible for sauces to accompany different dishes, as the different flavors will vary and complement a variety of tastes.



STANDARDS FOR QUALITY SAUCES

1. Consistency & Body:

Most sauces should be smooth with no lumps. They should not be too thick and pasty. They must be thick enough to coat the foods lightly.

2. Flavor:

The flavor of the sauce should be distinctive and well balanced. There must be a proper degree of seasoning with no starchy taste. The flavor should be selected to enhance or complement the food.

3. Appearance:

The appearance should be smooth with a good shine and gloss. It should have the requisite color: rich brown for the espagnole, pale ivory for the veloute and white (not gray) for the béchamel.


MISCELLANEOUS SAUCES

These are sauces that do not fit into any of the above classifications. These include:

Mint Sauce for Roast lamb
Horse radish sauce for Roast Beef
Bread Sauce for Roast Chicken
Cranberry sauce for Roast Turkey
Apple sauce for Roast Pork
Raisin Sauce for Ham
Orange sauce for Roast duck


DESSERT SAUCES

These are sauces, which are served exclusively for desserts. These will include

- Custard sauce for steamed and baked puddings
- Jam Sauce for ice creams and sundaes
- Chocolate sauce
- Rum sauce
- Brandy sauce
- Melba sauce


Additional Reading for this topic:

- The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery
- A. Escoffier (page 1-41)
- La Rousse Gastronomique
- Harengs Dictionary of Classical and Modern Cookery
(page 35-58)
- La Repertoire de la Cuisine














vernon coelho
ihm mumbai
2009-10






ASSIGNMENT


Now that you have learnt something about sauces, their structure and components, and their production, list down the following sauces in a chart form, mentioning the mother sauce and the additional ingredients used.

_________________________________________________________________

DERIVATIVE MOTHER ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
_________________________________________________________________

MORNAY


SOUBISE


MUSTARD


PARSLEY


CHEESE


AURORE


DUGLERE


CHAMPIGNON


VIN BLANC


BERCY (1)


BERCY(2)


CHASSEUR


BORDELAISE


LYONNAISE


CHARCUTIERE


ROBERT


MADERE


PERIGUEUX


CREOLE


PIQUANTE


PORTUGAISE


ITALIENNE


BARBEQUE



BEARNAISE


CHORON


FAYOT

CHANTILLY


PALOISE


MALTAISE


TARTARE


REMOULADE


COCKTAIL


GREEN GODDESS


TYROLEAN


THOUSAND ISLAND


SUPREME


NORMANDE


ALLEMANDE


VERONIQUE
















































CHAPTER XVI: SAUCES (CONTD) MAYONNAISE


Mayonnaise is a semi –solid emulsion of edible oils, egg yolks, vinegar (or lemon juice) and seasonings. Generally, commercially prepared mayonnaise contains not less than 50% vegetable oils and the sum of the oil and the egg yolk should not be less than 78%. Some products add starch pastes to aid in the emulsification and that do not otherwise comply with the standards of Mayonnaise are termed as salad dressings.

Preparation of Mayonnaise that will stand up well and not separate involves certain factors and techniques.

An emulsion is more readily achieved when all ingredients are at room temperature. Cold oil is difficult to break up into small fat globules that will ensure easy emulsification. Therefore it is recommended that the oil and the egg yolk be at room temperature.

Egg yolks are an efficient emulsifying agent because of their ability to hold additional fats. Fresh eggs are superior to older or stale eggs, for use in mayonnaise. Stale egg yolks have a weaker cell structure and thus are not able to hold the oil incorporated. Although older books and traditional recipes call for the use of salad oil or olive oil in the preparation of mayonnaise, modern chefs prefer the use of refined oil. This has a more neutral flavor and does not overpower the taste of the dish into which it is added. Any popular brand of oil may be used so long as it does not overpower the flavor of the sauce.

Egg yolk and oil are beaten together in the initial preparation step, prior to the addition of oil. Rapid and thorough beating of the eggs and oils in the beginning is one of the most important factors in producing the initial emulsion. The method of adding the oil is a deciding factor in the stability of the emulsion. Oil must be added slowly in the beginning and in small quantities. Once the emulsion begins to form, the oil may be added more rapidly and in greater volume. Make sure that the egg yolk is absorbing the oil as it is incorporated into the emulsion. The vinegar or lemon juice may be added either in the beginning itself or during various stages alternately with the oil. Vinegar will thin the emulsion and make it more liquid. It also reduces the intensity of the yellow color of the egg yolk.







Separation of the emulsion may occur if:

1. Oil is added too fast
2. Oil is added in too large a volume at one time
3. Improper and inefficient mixing techniques are used
4. Ingredients are at the wrong temperature


Separation may be corrected by:

1. Starting with a fresh egg yolk and using the separated mixture as the oil
2. Starting with a small quantity of prepared mayonnaise and using the separated mixture as the oil
3. Add one or two tablespoons of warm water to the separated mixture and mix vigorously

It is obvious that re emulsifying requires additional cost and labor besides time. Strict observance of quantities and prescribed methods will lessen the possibility of the sauce separating.

Fresh Mayonnaise may be stored in the refrigerator for upto two weeks and 3 to 5 C. Remember; mayonnaise is a cold, UNCOOKED sauce that contains egg yolk, which is a perfect medium for the growth and multiplication of bacteria. A thin film of oil maybe found on the surface. This is useful as it will form a protective layer and preserve the mayonnaise even longer. It can be easily mixed back into the sauce just before use. Upon storage, this layer will once again

BASIC RECIPE

Egg Yolk 1 no
Salt a pinch
Oil 150 ml
Mustard paste 1 tablespoon
White pepper powder a pinch
White vinegar/
Lemon juice 15 ml

Method: Select an acid repelling bowl. Add egg yolks, seasoning and vinegar.
Beat well until well mixed
Add the oil, slowly at first and then a little faster.
When the mixture becomes heavy and sticks to the whisk, check the seasoning. Now add in the rest of the oil.

No other flavorings should be added to the basic mayonnaise, which would overpower the various sauces, which derive out of this basic mother sauce. If fruit juices such as orange and pineapple are to be used, omit the vinegar and lemon juice from the recipe.

Containers:

Always check the container that is to be used to prepare a mayonnaise. It should not react with the acid in the sauce. Aluminum and copper should be avoided. Glass, stainless steel, enamel are all ideal for making mayonnaise. Also make sure that the vessel is absolutely clean and does not have any unwanted flavors already in it.

EGG COOKERY

Certain foods play a major role in cookery and the egg is one of them. It can be served as a main dish, as an accompaniment to other dishes or as an ingredient in a dish. Due to its versatility, the egg is considered a primary ingredient in culinary preparation, providing moisture, structure, and richness to a dish. It is also an emulsifier and an aerator when properly handled and used.

In cooking, the term `EGG’ refers to the oval ovum of a bird, used as food. There are many types of eggs, such as goose, duck and turkey. However, we are most concerned with the egg of the domesticated fowl called chicken. A recipe calling for egg normally means chicken egg unless otherwise specified.


COMPOSITION

A whole egg is made up of yolk, white and shell. A membrane lines the shell and forms an air cell at the large end of the shell. The yolk is centered in the shell by the Chalazae. These are two white strands that are visible when the egg is broken. The shell or the outer covering of the egg may be white or brown. Shell color has no effect on the quality, cooking properties or nutritive value of the egg. The breed of the bird determines color of the shell. Composed primarily of Calcium Carbonate, the shell is extremely fragile. It is porous, which allows it to breathe. The porous nature of the shell allows loss of moisture even if the shell is unbroken.

The egg white is the food and moisture source for the embryo in a fertilized egg. It accounts for 65% of the liquid weight of the egg. Egg white is made up of two parts. A thick white surrounds the yolk. Thinner, more liquid white is between the membrane and the thicker white. Albumin protein is the major component of the white. It also contains sulfur. The white is clear and soluble when raw. It is white and firm when coagulated. Albumin is the egg white valued by the cook and the baker for its ability to hold air when beaten. Beaten egg whites provide light fluffy texture for soufflés and light sponge cakes.

The yolk is the unfertilized embryo in the egg. Although normally yellow, the depth of color will vary with the feed of the hen. The yolk is high in fat and protein, and contains iron. The yolk is valued for the richness and texture it provides in both cooking and baking.

The most important rule of egg cookery is a very simple one: avoid high temperature and long cooking times. In other words, do not overcook. Eggs are largely proteins, so the principle of coagulation is important to consider. Eggs coagulate at the following temperatures.

Egg Whites: 140-149F or 60-65C
Egg Yolks: 144-148F or 62-70C

Note that the egg white coagulates before the yolk. That is why it is possible to cook the egg with a firm white but a runny yolk. As the temperature of coagulation is reached, the eggs change from semi liquid to solid, and they become opaque. If the temperature continues to rise, they become firmer. An overcooked egg is tough and rubbery. Low temperatures produce the best-cooked eggs.

SULFUR: The familiar blue ring that you have often seen in a boiled egg, is caused by cooking for extended periods at a high temperature. This is caused by the sulfur in the egg white, which combines with the iron in the egg yolk to form Ferrous Sulfide, a strong smelling compound that is deposited around the yolk. The best way to avoid this is to cook at low temperatures for the correct cooking time.

EGG FOAMS: Beaten Egg Whites are used to give lightness and rising power to soufflés, fluffy omelets, cakes and some pancakes. The following guidelines will help you handle beaten egg whites properly.

1. Fat inhibits foaming: When separating eggs, take care not to allow any yolk to be mixed with the white. Yolks contain fat and this will inhibit the foaming. Always use very clean equipment to beat egg whites.
2. Mild acids help foaming: A small amount of lemon juice or cream of tartar gives more volume and stability to beaten egg.
3. Egg Whites foam better at Room Temperature: Remove the eggs from the cooler or refrigerator about an hour before beating.
4. Do not over beat: Beaten egg whites should look moist and shiny. Over beaten eggs look dry and curdled. They have now lost their capacity as aerators.
5. Sugars make foams more stable: Adding some sugar to partially beaten egg whites will make the foam more stable. It will retain shape for a much longer period of time.







EGG SIZE CLASSIFICATION:

Jumbo 70 gms 850 gms/doz
Extra Large 60-65 gms 765 gms/doz
Large 55 gms 680 gms/doz
Medium 48 gms 595 gms/doz
Small 40 gms 510 gms/doz
Peewee 35 gms 425 gms/doz


MARKET FORMS:

- Fresh eggs or shell eggs

- Frozen eggs (whole, whites, yolks)

- Dried eggs ( whole, yolks and whites)


STORAGE AND HANDLING:

Protection of eggs is of great importance. When improperly handled, its properties as an ingredient and independent food item are greatly impaired. Eggs lose their qualities rapidly at room temperature. They should always be stored at 36-40F. Eggs have porous shells which allow air to enter the shells. They should be stored away from food, which are strong smelling and which may pass on their odors.


NUTRITIVE VALUE:

Nutritionally, eggs are important. They contain vitamins A, D, E and K. The also contain some of the B-complex vitamins. The are high in Iron and provide 15% of the protein requirement of the body. Eggs are low in saturated fats and one egg provides approx. 80 calories. The major concern with egg is cholesterol. One large egg averages 213 mg of cholesterol. This is fairly high for people who have restricted diets. Using the egg white only is part of the solution as most of the cholesterol is concentrated in the yolk. The egg is unquestionably one of the best sources of food, yet it requires thought and consideration.

Egg is considered the most versatile ingredient to be used in the kitchen. On a separate sheet of paper, list the various uses of egg in cooking and baking.



HEALTH BENEFITS/ADVANTAGES:

- Egg is nature’s most perfect package of nutrition.
- It is naturally sealed, absolutely unadulterable.
- Egg protein is of the highest quality. It is used as a standard to measure the quality of any other protein food.
- Its biological value (96) is the highest, compared to other food.
- Egg contains carotenoids and Vitamin A – good for eyesight; Vitamin D and Calcium – good for strong teeth and bones; Vitamin E – good for glowing skin; and a wide range of other vitamins and minerals necessary for good health.
- Egg whites (albumen) is an antidote for certain toxins and prevents ulcers, enteritis, gastritis, diarrhea and dysentery.
- Carotenoid pigments present in egg yolk are natural anti oxidants which reduce the risk of cardio - vascular diseases
- Folate B Vitamin found in eggs play an important role in prevention of birth defects and cardio – vascular diseases
- Lutein and Zeaxanthin found in eggs significantly reduce the risk of cataracts and age related muscular degeneration.
- Eggs have a higher agglomeration of seven natural anti oxidants, which prevents premature aging, per oxidation, formation of plaques in the arteries, artheosclerosis and cardio – vascular diseases. They also help minimize memory loss and certain neurological disorders.
- Egg is easily digestible, good for all age groups. At Rs 25-30 per kilo, it is the cheapest source of animal protein.
- Egg is one of the most versatile foods. It can be cooked and enjoyed in umpteen exciting ways.
- Specific Pathogen Free (SPF) eggs are essential raw material for production of Human and Avian/Animal vaccines, as per the WHO guidelines.
- The per capita consumption of eggs in India is 38. In Taiwan it is 358, Japan: 346, USA: 308 and in Europe: 290. The National Institute of Nutrition (India) recommends 180 eggs per capita consumption.
- WHO has given Egg a 100 point rating as the best protein food for humans.

Minestrone

No. of Portions 4

Ingredients QTY Unit
White stock / water 1.5 Lt
Onion 50 Gm
Carrots 50 Gm
Celery 30 Gm
Potato 30 Gm
Cauliflower 50 Gm
Cabbage 30 Gm
Tomato 100 Gm
Tomato puree 30 Gm
Parsley – chopped 5 Gm
Macaroni 50 Gm
Cheese – grated 50 Gm
Garlic paste 5 Gm
Salt, white pepper pwd. To taste


Pre-preparations:
1. Wash, peel and trim vegetables as required. Cut into even sized pieces.
2. Blanch and concasse tomatoes.
3. Combine cheese, garlic, parsley and pepper powder. Prepare even sized balls of this mixture and keep aside for garnish.
Steps:
1. Place macaroni and vegetables in a sauce pan and add stock / water.
2. Bring it to a boil and simmer till the macaroni and vegetables are cooked.
3. Add tomatoes and cook for a few minutes more. Check seasoning.
Presentation:
Place the garnish in the soup bowl and ladle the soup over. Serve piping hot.
Standard:


4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.

Egg Florentine

No. of Portions 4

Ingredients QTY Unit
Eggs 4 No.
Salt To taste
Spinach 2 Bunch
Butter
10 Gm
Garlic 10 Gm
Onion 50 Gm
Nutmeg powder A pinch
Refined flour 20 Gm
Butter 20 Gm
Milk 200 Ml
Cheese 50 Gm





Pre-preparations:
1. Clean, wash and blanch spinach. Shred lightly.
2. Bruise garlic, chop onion finely. Grate cheese.
3. Heat butter; add garlic and onion and sauté. Add spinach and nutmeg. Season.
4. Prepare white sauce with butter, refined flour and milk. Add half the cheese and adjust seasoning.

Method:
1. Grease a pie dish or an oven proof dish with butter.
2. Arrange spinach over it.
3. Break and arrange eggs over spinach .Cover with cooled white sauce.
4. Sprinkle remaining cheese and gratinate under a salamander OR place in a hot oven till it browns. Serve hot.

Standard:
Evenly browned surface, properly set eggs, spinach should retain colour, sauce should be smooth and seasoned adequately.

Parsley potatoes

No. of Portions 4

Ingredients QTY Unit
New potatoes 250 Gm
Salt To taste
Butter 20 Gm
Parsley ¼ Bunch






Pre-preparations:
1. Clean and wash small potatoes properly. Scrub off any dirt.
2. Boil in salted water till done. Drain water. DO NOT REFRESH.
3. Chop parsley finely.


Method:
1. Just before serving, heat butter, add potatoes and toss well.
2. Add parsley and serve immediately.



To serve:


Standard:

Cole slaw



No. of Portions
4


Ingredients
QTY
Unit

Cabbage
200
Gm

Carrot
50
Gm

Onion
50
Gm

Capsicum
20
Gm

For vinaigrette dressing:



Vinegar or lime juice
10
Ml

Olive oil
30
Ml

Salt, white pepper pwd.
To taste


Mustard paste (opt)
To taste











                                                                                               

Steps:

1.        
Shred cabbage finely. Cut carrots, onion and capsicum into juliennes. Immerse all these into ice-cold water for 20-30 minutes.

  1.  
Prepare dressing with vinegar or lime juice, salt, pepper powder, oil and mustard.

  1.  
Drain and dry vegetables in a clean duster.

  1.  
Mix dressing and serve immediately.

Standard:
Evenly cut vegetables, of uniform size and shape. Lightly glazed and seasoned with vinaigrette dressing.

Sunday, September 5, 2010

HAPPY TEACHERS DAY and SANSKRIT DAY

in memory of Dr Sarvepalli Radhakrishnan, our first Vice .President n Second President.

He wrote authoritative exegeses of India's religious and philosophical literature for the English speaking world. His academic appointments included the King George V Chair of Mental and Moral Science at the University of Calcutta (1921-?) and Spalding Professor of Eastern Religions and Ethics at Oxford University(1936–1952).
Among the many honours he received were a knighthood (1931) and the Bharat Ratna (1954). His birthday is celebrated in India as Teacher's Day on 5 September.



Remebr all the teachers who hav brought us up to this level, they have shared knwlege, helped us to overcome every obstacle..
Love U All...!!
PIYUSH THAKUR (CR)
POOJA SUTAR     (ACR)

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

HAPPY JANAMASHTAMI...!!

WISH U HAPPY JANAMASHTAMI...!!

GROUP ROCKSS!!

Velouté



No. of Portions
1 lt


Ingredients
QTY
Unit

White stock
1
Lt

Butter
100
Gm

Refined flour
100
Gm


Liaison:



Fresh cream
60
Ml

Egg yolk
1
No.











                                                                                               
Method:
1.        
Heat the butter in a heavy bottom pan over a low heat.
2.        
Add flour and whisk to make a blonde roux. Cool slightly.
3.        
Gradually add hot stock to the roux whisking continuously.
4.        
Simmer till cooked. Strain through a china cap (chinoise) or a soup strainer.
5.        
Mix together egg yolk and cream (liaison). Add some hot velouté to liaison and mix well. Add this mixture back to the velouté and mix well. This is called ‘tempering’. This is done just before service.
6.        
If it is for later use, DO NOT temper, cool, store in the refrigerator.